New Designers Debut at Ferragamo and Marni

While Dolce & Gabbana showed a classic collection on a bevy of celeb kids and social media stars, new designers debuted at both Ferragamo and Marni, infusing Milan with a sense of excitement on the fifth day of fashion week.

Ferragamo

It’s fitting that models walked to The Carpenters’ “We’ve Only Just Begun” as two new designers debuted at the house of Ferragamo.

Fulvio Rigoni officially took the reins as women’s design director with this collection, with Paul Andrew on hand for footwear.
Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2017
Spaghetti strap slip dresses with side patches that rolled under the arm and tied loosely in back were a nice technical touch, but would be an awkward fit for any woman over a sample size. There isn’t a lot of red carpet potential here, but these are simple, elegant clothes that work for worki[……]

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Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Fall 2017


It’s difficult to put your finger on what ready-to-wear from Salvatore Ferragamo should be. The brand image as a leather goods house is one of timelessness and quality — belts, loafers, maybe a rainbow stacked platform spring to mind — but when it comes to the clothes, there’s a question mark. Now in his second season as women’s design director, Fulvio Rigoni is sorting out his vision of Ferragamo as a resource for real clothes that are “dynamic, luxurious, comfortable, yet sensual,” as he said backstage. Those words can go in many aesthetic directions, and, here, they haven’t crystalized just yet.

He took some of the colors, shapes and mood of twisted luxury from a Serge Lutens TV campaign for Jun Ropé from the Seventies. “His idea of beauty is very peculiar and kind of surreal,” Rig[……]

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Salvatore Ferragamo Waking a Sleeping Beauty

LONDON, United Kingdom — Eraldo Poletto, Salvatore Ferragamo’s CEO since August 2016, is aiming high. With a new strategy in place, he expects Ferragamo to outperform average luxury sector sales growth by a factor of two, driving annual gains of 8 percent each year until 2020, by which time the company plans to hit €2 billion in revenue. Over the next three years, Poletto also aims to raise gross margins by two percent.

While I might quibble over the actual figures and timeframe — it will certainly take a while to put everything into place — there’s little doubt that Ferragamo is waking up. That’s not to say that the Italian group has been completely dormant. Under the leadership of the company’s previous CEO Michele Norsa, Ferragamo overhauled its distribution network and operations an[……]

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